Tulola

Paying homage to Indonesian craftsmanship

Sri Luce Rusna could be said to be “typically Indonesian” in the unity in diversity of her family background. Born to a US father and Balinese mother, the noted designer Desak Nyoman Suarti, she spent her fi rst fi ve years in New York City, before moving to Bali.

She also grew up with an appreciation for jewelry and traditional craftsmanship through her mother’s collection of antique jewelry and from living on the island. So it would seem a natural fi t for her to pursue her own handcrafted jewelry line, Tulola, which she describes as an homage to tradition but suitable for contemporary tastes.

“I wanted to revive the traditional message but present them in a more modern context. They are hand crafted but relevant to today’s fashions and trends, even though I am not a fashion jeweler,” Sri says from her fl agship store in Seminyak, Bali, which opened in December 2011.

The designs stays true to the traditional heritage of craftsmanship and motifs, whether they come from Bali, other parts of Indonesia, China or Tibet, but the silhouettes are more modern. Sri’s Tulola designs have reportedly been worn by such famous names as Mischa Barton, Courtney Love and Kelly Rowland, and also featured in the US fashion magazine W’s January 2012 Most Wanted List. Here at home, actress and writer Happy Salma is a friend of Sri’s and also a fan of her jewelry.

“I would be wearing one of her rings or another piece, and people would stop me all the time and ask, ‘where did that come from?’” says Happy, who is married to a member of the Ubud royal family and is now based in Bali.

Happy is a nationalist at heart, in the broad and diverse defi nition of the term. She names Pramoedya Ananta Toer as her favorite writer; her favorite painters are Raden Saleh and Affandi. She says she speaks Indonesian in the home with her part Australian husband, and it has been a process in learning the intricate court decorum.

So she was captivated by Sri’s heritage designs because they represent many aspects of Indonesia. “You have the craftsmanship of the chains made by the artisans in Java, combined with the beautiful detailing of the Balinese craftspeople,” she says. Sri works from a small studio in East Bali, with six artisans.

“I also commission works from other areas, because each area has its own skill set. Bali has amazing handiwork, and natural inspired motifs like fl owers. You have the heavy chains that come from Java, very symmetrical and hammered. I like bringing the talents together and presenting them in a new way,” she say.

The two women are joining forces to launch Tulola’s fi rst solo exhibition of jewelry this weekend at Dia.Lo.Gue Artspace in Kemang, South Jakarta. After its by- invitation opening on Saturday, which will also include a poetry reading by Happy, the exhibition will be open to the public on Sunday, January 15, and Monday, January 16.

Sri emphasizes that her main concern is making traditional jewelry relevant in a modern age.

“I’m glad that there is a community out there that can appreciate my jewelry and the craftsmanship and heritage designs. Both Happy and I feel very strongly about presenting it in a way that is accessible to today.”

She also says there is still untapped potential for the growth of handicrafts in the country’s creative economy.

“I think there is there huge potential for growth and development of jewelry in the cultural industry of Indonesia. I think that too often handcrafted Indonesian jewelry is categorized as ethnic or traditional. Indonesia has a wealth of cultural, workmanship, and design knowledge that I think is underexplored in areas of jewelry.

I believe with advancements in quality control and design that handcrafted jewelry could be a great asset to the creative economy of Indonesia,” she says. Sri plans to open another Tulola store in Soho, New York. But what is the meaning behind the name Tulola?

“It is for my daughter, Putu Lola, who we call Tulola for short,” Sri explains. “This is a passion project and dear to my heart, just like my daughter.”

– JP/Bruce Emond